How to Choose Hog Hunting Ammo That Actually Stops Pigs

A deer bullet that works perfectly on a 150-pound whitetail can come apart on a big boar's shoulder. Picking hog ammo is mostly about choosing a bullet that holds together.

Why hogs are a different problem

Wild pigs have spread fast. According to Texas Parks and Wildlife, the U.S. population grew from an estimated 2.4 million in 1982 to about 6.9 million in 2016, and their range expanded from 18 states to 35 over the same period. The USDA's APHIS lists a minimum annual cost of feral swine damage in the U.S. of 3.4 billion dollars. That is why many landowners welcome hog hunters, and why hogs are now a year-round target in much of the South.

They are also tougher to stop cleanly than deer of the same weight. Mature boars develop a thick, gristly layer of skin and cartilage over the shoulders, often called a shield, which grows heavier with age and fighting. Hogs are also stocky, with heavy bone and vitals that sit lower and farther forward than many deer hunters expect.

Put those together and you get the core rule of hog ammo: pick bullets that penetrate and hold together.

Step 1: Choose bullet construction first

Caliber arguments get the attention, but bullet construction matters more. Here is how the common types stack up for hogs.

Bullet type	How it behaves	For hogs
All-copper monometal (TSX, TTSX, copper HP)	Expands into petals, keeps nearly all its weight	Excellent; deep penetration through shields
Bonded soft point (Fusion-style)	Jacket bonded to core, holds together	Excellent all-around choice
Mechanically locked cup-and-core (InterLock-style)	Ring helps keep jacket and core together	Good for most pigs at moderate velocities
Basic cup-and-core soft point	Expands reliably, may lose weight on heavy bone	Fine for small and medium hogs
Polymer-tipped varmint (V-Max-style)	Designed to fragment quickly	Skip for big hogs
Match hollow point (OTM, BTHP)	Designed for accuracy, not controlled expansion	Skip unless the maker lists it for game
FMJ	Little or no expansion	Skip; illegal for big game in many states

Step 2: Pick a load for your caliber

Most hog hunters use what they already own. Here is how to feed the common calibers.

300 Blackout

Popular for hogs because it runs in short, often suppressed AR-15s. Supersonic loads with copper or bonded bullets are the right choice for hunting. Subsonic loads only make sense with bullets the maker specifically designs to expand at subsonic speed.

For more 300 BLK choices, see our 300 Blackout ammo guide.

6.5 Grendel

The Grendel fits an AR-15 lower and carries a heavier, longer bullet than 5.56, which suits hogs well.

Also listed: Hornady 6.5 Grendel 123 gr SST, a fast-expanding tipped bullet better suited to small and medium hogs.

6.5 Creedmoor

A bolt-action or AR-10 favorite with plenty of penetration when you choose the right bullet.

Also listed: Federal Power-Shok 6.5 CM 140 gr SP as a traditional soft point. Avoid the light 95-grain varmint loads for hogs.

.308 Winchester and straight-wall options

The .308 with a 150 to 180 grain bonded or copper bullet handles any hog. Our .308 ammo guide lists hunting loads. Straight-wall deer cartridges also work well on pigs: the Federal Fusion .450 Bushmaster 260 gr bonded soft point is a heavy, tough choice for close cover.

What about 5.56 / .223?

Many hogs are taken with .223 and 5.56, but it is the cartridge with the least margin for big boars. If you use it, pick a heavy bonded or copper hunting bullet, keep shots close, and be precise with placement. Skip light varmint bullets and FMJ.

Step 3: Know where to aim

Hog vitals sit low and forward. The most common mistake for deer hunters is aiming too far back.

Broadside: aim tight behind the front leg, about a third of the way up the body. A shot through the shoulder will break heavy bone and reach the heart and lungs if the bullet holds together, which is exactly why construction matters.
Head and neck: a small target that drops hogs on the spot, but only for experienced shooters at close range with a solid rest. A miss by a few inches can wound.
Avoid: going-away shots and shots through brush, which deflect bullets.

Step 4: Match the load to your rifle

Zero with your hunting load, not with cheap practice ammo. Different bullets hit different spots.
Confirm groups at your expected range. Copper bullets sometimes shoot to a different point of impact than lead-core bullets.
Check function in semi-autos. Run several magazines through the gun to confirm feeding.
Buy enough of one lot to zero, practice a little and hunt, so you do not have to re-zero midseason.

Step 5: Plan for the shot after the shot

Even well-hit hogs can run, and they often head for the thickest cover around. A few habits help:

Watch and listen after the shot. Note the last place you saw the animal.
Be ready for a follow-up. Keep the rifle shouldered and reload immediately. Sounders scatter, and a second hog may present a shot.
Wait before tracking if the hit looked marginal, and track with a partner. Approach from behind and above the animal where possible.
Handle carcasses with gloves. Wild pigs can carry diseases that affect people and pets. Cook pork thoroughly.

Night hunting and optics

Much hog hunting happens after dark, where it is legal. That brings in thermal and night vision optics, which are a topic of their own; our sister site thermalscopes.co covers them. The ammo rules do not change at night. If anything, close, fast shots in the dark make a tough, reliable bullet even more important.

Check the rules. Hog hunting regulations vary widely by state, including license requirements, public-land restrictions, night hunting and the use of lights or thermal optics. Read your state wildlife agency's current regulations and get landowner permission. Hogs can be dangerous when wounded or cornered; approach downed animals with care and keep your rifle ready.

For hogs, buy the bullet first and the caliber second. A copper monometal or bonded soft point in 300 Blackout, 6.5 Grendel, 6.5 Creedmoor or .308 handles nearly every pig. Aim low and tight behind the shoulder, and zero with the exact load you hunt with.

Editorial note: This is an independent editorial overview built from manufacturer specifications, retailer listings and published sources. We have not performed hands-on testing of the products discussed, and nothing here is a performance guarantee. Verify specifications, compatibility and the law where you live.

Frequently asked questions

What is the best caliber for hog hunting?

There is no single best. 300 Blackout, 6.5 Grendel, 6.5 Creedmoor and .308 are all popular. The bullet construction matters more than the caliber.

Is 5.56 enough for hogs?

It can work on smaller hogs with heavy bonded or copper hunting bullets and careful shot placement at close range. It has the least margin of the common choices for big boars.

What bullet is best for hogs?

A bullet designed for penetration and weight retention, such as an all-copper monometal or bonded soft point. Avoid fragmenting varmint bullets and FMJ.

Where should you shoot a hog?

Low and tight behind the front leg for the heart and lungs. Hog vitals sit farther forward than many deer hunters expect. Head and neck shots are for experienced shooters at close range only.

Is subsonic 300 Blackout good for hogs?

Only with bullets designed to expand at subsonic velocity. Many hunters choose supersonic copper or bonded loads for more reliable expansion.

Sources and further reading

Affiliate disclosure: Some links on this page are affiliate links to Ammunition Depot. We may earn a commission if you buy through them, at no extra cost to you. Our editorial choices are not influenced by commissions. Check current price, stock and specifications directly with the retailer.