HomeBlogHow to Read a Headstamp: Decode Any Cartridge in 30 Seconds
Education8 min readApril 2026

How to Read a Headstamp: Decode Any Cartridge in 30 Seconds

BuyMoreAmmo earns commissions on qualifying purchases through our affiliate links. This doesn't affect our recommendations or the prices you pay. Full disclosure.

Table of Contents

  1. The Basic Layout
  2. Military Headstamps
  3. Identifying Unknown Ammo
  4. Rimfire Headstamps
  5. FAQ

🎯 What You'll Learn

Every cartridge has a story stamped into its base. The headstamp — the markings on the bottom of a cartridge case — tells you the caliber, the manufacturer, and sometimes the year it was made. Learning to read headstamps takes about five minutes and is one of the most practical firearms skills nobody teaches.

This matters because: you will encounter unmarked ammo. Inherited collections, bulk cans from gun shows, ammo someone handed you at the range — if you can read the headstamp, you can identify exactly what you're holding. If you can't, you're guessing. And guessing about ammunition caliber is how people destroy guns and injure themselves.

The Basic Layout

A typical commercial headstamp contains two to three pieces of information arranged around the primer pocket:

Caliber designation: Usually at the 12 o'clock or 6 o'clock position. Examples: "9mm LUGER", ".45 AUTO", "5.56×45", ".308 WIN", ".223 REM". This tells you exactly what cartridge you're holding. If nothing else, read this.

Manufacturer code: Usually at the 6 o'clock or 3/9 o'clock position. Common codes include FC (Federal Cartridge), WIN (Winchester), RP (Remington-Peters), SPEER, HORN (Hornady), CCI, PMC, S&B (Sellier & Bellot), PPU (Prvi Partizan), MAGTECH, GFL (Fiocchi), TUL (Tula).

+P marking: If present, indicates the cartridge is loaded to higher-than-standard pressure. Usually stamped as "+P" or "+P+" directly on the headstamp. This is a critical safety identifier — +P ammunition should only be used in firearms rated for it.

Military Headstamps

Military ammunition headstamps follow different conventions than commercial. Instead of brand names and caliber designations, military headstamps typically show:

Factory code: A number or letter code identifying the arsenal or contractor. Common U.S. codes include LC (Lake City Army Ammunition Plant), WCC (Western Cartridge Company/Olin), TW (Twin Cities Arsenal), and FC (Federal for military contracts).

Year of manufacture: A two-digit or four-digit year stamp. "LC 22" means Lake City, manufactured in 2022. This is critical for assessing the age and condition of surplus ammo.

NATO cross: A circle with a cross (+) inside it indicates the ammunition meets NATO STANAG specifications. If you see this symbol on a 5.56mm or 7.62mm cartridge, it was manufactured to military pressure and dimensional standards. It's safe in any NATO-spec chamber.

Quick ID: The Most Common Headstamps You'll See

FC 9mm LUGER = Federal, 9mm. WIN .45 AUTO = Winchester, .45 ACP. LC 22 = Lake City military, 2022 production. S&B 9×19 = Sellier & Bellot, 9mm (European designation). PPU .308 WIN = Prvi Partizan (Serbian), .308 Winchester. TUL 223 REM = Tula (Russian), .223 Remington steel case.

Identifying Unknown Ammo

You inherited grandpa's ammo can. There are loose rounds mixed together. Here's the process:

Step 1: Read the headstamp. Caliber designation is your starting point. If it says "30-06 SPRG" or ".308 WIN", you know what you have.

Step 2: No readable caliber? Measure the cartridge. Overall length, case length, bullet diameter, and rim diameter will identify any cartridge when cross-referenced with a reloading manual or online cartridge database.

Step 3: Check condition. Look for corrosion (green/white residue on brass), dents in the case, set-back bullets (bullets pushed deeper than normal into the case), or loose primers. Damaged ammo should be disposed of — most local ranges and gun shops have ammo disposal programs.

Step 4: Unknown headstamps. If the markings are unfamiliar, photograph the headstamp and search online. Dedicated databases like cartridgecollectors.org and head-stamp.com catalog thousands of military and commercial headstamp patterns with full identification.

When in Doubt, Don't Shoot It

If you cannot positively identify a cartridge's caliber, do not attempt to fire it in any firearm. A wrong-caliber round can cause catastrophic failure. Take unknown ammunition to a knowledgeable gun shop or range officer for identification. It's free and it might save your hands.

Rimfire Headstamps

Rimfire cartridges (.22 LR, .22 WMR, .17 HMR) have simpler headstamps — usually just a manufacturer code. Common .22 LR headstamps: U (Remington), F (Federal), C (CCI), W (Winchester), A (Aguila). The caliber is usually NOT stamped on rimfire headstamps because the cartridge dimensions are obvious to anyone who handles them regularly.

The important rimfire distinction: .22 LR and .22 WMR are different cartridges. .22 WMR (Winchester Magnum Rimfire) is wider in diameter and longer than .22 LR. They are NOT interchangeable. If a headstamp on a small rimfire cartridge is unfamiliar, measure before shooting.

FAQ

Does headstamp date affect reliability?
Properly stored ammunition is reliable for decades regardless of manufacture date. Surplus ammo from the 1960s-1970s still fires reliably when stored in cool, dry conditions. The headstamp date tells you the age, not the condition. Inspect for corrosion and damage regardless of date.
What does "NATO" on a headstamp mean?
A NATO cross (+ symbol in a circle) means the ammunition was manufactured to NATO STANAG specifications. This is a quality and interoperability standard — NATO-spec ammo meets strict pressure, dimensional, and reliability requirements. It's generally considered high-quality military-grade ammunition safe for any firearm chambered for that caliber.
Can I reload brass with military crimped primers?
Yes, but you need to remove the primer crimp first using a swaging tool or a chamfering tool. Military brass (especially Lake City 5.56) has crimped primers for reliability in automatic weapons. Attempting to seat a new primer without removing the crimp can crush or damage the primer. A primer pocket swaging tool costs about $30 and makes the process simple.

Never Miss a Deal

Get weekly ammo deals, price alerts, and buyer’s guides delivered to your inbox.

Subscribe Free
Some links in this article are affiliate links. If you purchase through them, we may earn a commission at no extra cost to you. We only recommend products we’d buy ourselves. Full disclosure.